On Catching Waves

A post from Surfista Travels - Philippines:

"Never despair in your quest to score good, uncrowded waves, no matter how seemingly oppressive the odds. There is always a way, and magic sessions have a habit of popping up at the most unlikely, unexpected times. And... even if it can be a lonely road at times, and you might feel lost and adrift and unsure of your next move, there's a lot to be said for falling out of step with the herd. For that is where the MAGIC dwells." ~ Tim Baker, High Surf

I'm a beginner at surfing. I started May of 2011 at Bagasbas, Daet, Camarines Norte, Philippines. I caught and rode my first wave with the guiding, or more appropriately pushing, hands of my instructor, Mocha. Needless to say, I'm stoked.

September of the same year, I braved paddling out and catching waves on my own. Some attempts were fruitful, others were futile. In my not-so-lucky-days, I always get frustrated whenever the waves are rare and I couldn't even catch the very few ones that happen to generously show themselves. The same is true when the waves are frequent and huge. It's either the waves roll too slow or they just get past me too fast they're gone even before I could blink; or that the water is too crowded I couldn't even come near the good ones. All in all, I blame it on myself - my unskillful self. "If I had been more <this>, I would have been <that>." I blame my lack of skills regardless of the little praises I get from locals and other surfers I get to meet and talk to in the wee moments of sitting on your board at sea waiting and watching out for waves.

I get frustrated. I would get cheers on the little progress I made: on paddling, on balancing, or on not missing that nice wave that's worth a long ride. But I get frustrated. In my head I would think, "I was better yesterday", "I'm progressing backwards", "I'm hesitating too much".

My ever-wise companion said, "You're best critic is yourself." We're getting there inch by inch.

"Never despair," - Tim Baker. And I stopped and breathe deep. Now all I need is another day at the beach, a board and a good swell. And let's hope the magic happens.